2 days from Veracruz to Cuernavaca? Only 320 miles? It was because this part of the trip was miserable! One of the things that Veracruz is famous for is the weather that can come in suddenly from the north, "Los Nortes". It can happen at any time of the year but is somewhat less likely in May-June, I think. It started as I left San Andres Tuxtla as a strong cross wind, cloudy skies and the occasional drizzle. By the time I was on the coast of the Gulf of Mexico it was cold, gusty and the wind was blowing sand off the beach. On top of that, the road was only 2 lanes with no shoulder. The gusts were blowing me nearly into the other lane, mini sand dunes were forming on the road, the rain and blowing sand, all in all, not too much fun! At least the traffic was light. I was keeping my speed down to 60-80 kph and watching the mirror for traffic. When I saw someone coming up behind me, I'd let the gusts blow me all over the road until the other vehicle was ready to pass, then I'd pull over to the extreme right and let them by. That way they tended to pass with a little more caution than usual.

Veracruz Port Authority

This continued all the way into Veracruz where I started to scan for a hotel. Although there was nothing special happening that weekend, I had a hell of a time finding a place. First I asked a cab driver to recommend something near the centro. He said "No problem, follow me!" Well, I followed and followed and he kept heading out of town to the north. I caught up to him and asked what he was up to. He swore the hotel was just a couple of block further on and that the area was considered to be in the center of town but I wasn't buying it. I told him thanks anyway but that I was going to head back. Then he had the audacity to ask for $50 pesos for the guide service! "Fine", I said, "show me your ID" which I noted down along with the cab number and the name of his boss. Then I gave him $20 pesos, thanked him politely and took off.

The only place I could find was a couple of blocks away from the central square, dreary, dingy, 4th floor, no elevator, no parking and rude staff. I had to leave the bike at another hotel two blocks away. At least it was indoor parking.

One night was enough of Veracruz for me. I pulled out as early as I could the next morning and headed inland.

Travelers Advisory: There are no gas stations in Veracruz.

I swear, I looked for a gas station all the way from the center of town to the highway, there are none. I don't know what the locals do. Maybe they have to drive to the next state every time they fill up, I don't know. Anyway, I had to pull off the highway about five miles at Medellin to find one.

The weather was still miserable so I just kept my head down and ass up and blasted through to Cordoba. I like Cordoba but I was so cold and wet I just grabbed a room took a hot shower and got in bed. It was about 11:00 a.m. By 6:00 p.m. I was pretty well thawed out so went out and got a bite.

Next morning was the big debate: wait out the weather or make a run for it? How bad could it be? As it turned out, it could be pretty bad.

The road rises from 900 meters at Cordoba to about 2600 meters at its highest point over a distance of about 70 km. By the time I had passed Orizaba, I had climbed into the clouds and from there on it was foggy, rainy and damned COLD. I should have turned back or even waited until mid-day but I guess my brain was as foggy as the weather. I spent most of the trip behind a big trailer, testing my brakes frequently and when traffic came up from behind, I'd wave them past. Average speed was probably about 20-30 kph. This was probably one of the stupidest things I've ever done. Not THE stupidest thing, mind you, but let's not go into that here.

After a couple of hours couldn't take it anymore but there hadn't been anywhere to pull over until I heard a truck idling off to the right through the fog. There may have been a truck stop or restaurant but if there was, couldn't see it. Visibility was less than 15 meters. I hunkered down for a half hour in a cement structure without doors or windows trying to get my fingers to uncurl when a kid passed by. He told me that I was at the summit of the highway and that the caseta was only a few more kilometers further on. He had just come from there and the sun had been shining when he left. Hallelujah! I might survive my own stupidity after all!

Sure enough, in less than an hour I passed the caseta at Esperanza. Although the altitude was still about 2500 m, the nasty weather was trapped on the other side of the mountains and by Puebla I had thawed out completely.

The rest of the trip is hardly worth mentioning. Straight through from Puebla to Izucar de Matamoros to Cuernavaca. I thought about stopping at Cholula to see the famous pyramid/church but I really wasn't in the mood. It would have to be another trip.

I arrived home at 6:00 on the March 31st.

Home Sweet Home

Doug Hurd
22 December, 2004

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