Adventures In Mexico

THE WHITE HOUSE

April - 2001

This was the house where I was comfortably ensconced from about June of 1998 until October 2000.  The owners, had retired to the Orlando area to be with their family and watch their grandchildren grow.  This house was their home in Cuernavaca for more that twenty years, and now, sadly, they had decided to sell it.

As nearly as I can piece together the story, the house was built by a New York architect in about 1979, who lived here for only a couple of years. At that time, the owners were in the process of closing down their real estate business in Atlantic City.  They looked briefly at a couple of other Mexican cities, but they, like me, had no trouble deciding on Cuernavaca to settle down.  Perfect weather year round, friendly people, a foreign community said to be 5000 strong and lots to do.

I had a friend over one day to tour the house, Bob V., also a Canadian, and he told me that the style was similar to  an architect from Spain named Goudi.  He told me that this Goudi fellow would build houses from models rather than drawings.  Sure enough, there is an exact scale model of the house tucked away in the bathroom of the master bedroom.  However, the timing isn't quite right.  I think Bob said that Goudi was working in Spain in the first half of the 1900's.  That leads me to surmise that this house might have been done by a student of his, or at least an admirer.

Aside from my assumptions on the origin of the house, it has to be seen to be believed.  It really is one of a kind!  It occupies a corner lot with 1152 square meters of land and 757 square meters of construction. The front has the main garage (space for a large van) with a covered walkway to the kitchen's side door.  To enter through the main door from the street, you have to stop and take in the main foyer with its two-story arches,  marble, spiral stair case and wrought iron balustrade.  Most people don't even notice the Palms, Magnolia tree, Bugambilia, Bird-of-Paradise, and other flowering plants in the front garden. 

Part way up the front staircase, to the right, is the passageway to the bedrooms.    I say passageway but I suppose, technically, it's a bridge. The bedrooms are completely separate from main house but connected by this bridge.  Underneath, is the corner of the garden and a Mandarin Orange tree!

On the second floor is the master bedroom; on the ground floor are three smaller bedrooms.  Each of the bedrooms has its own terrace, full bathroom and fireplace (although the fireplaces are functional, they've never been used).  The view from the master bedroom overlooks the pool, back garden and most of the valley of Morelos, but more on that later.

If we go back through the passageway to the main house, we can tour the dining room and kitchen.  I forgot to take photos of them so you'll have to use your imagination.   The dining room seats 10 comfortably.  It has it own balcony that over looks the back garden and the valley of Morelos. A huge brass chandelier fills the dome in the ceiling, centered  over the glass and rattan table.  Towards the front of the house, past the pantry, is the kitchen.  More pantry, the oven and stove are accompanied by about 6 meters of stainless steel counter space and double sink.  The kitchen also has an arched ceiling with a wrought iron framed window at each end.  The back door from the kitchen leads downstairs to the servant quarters; a two bedroom apartment with its own kitchenette, bathroom and terrace.

Now, back to the living room.  At the top of the stairs, through another wrought iron and glass door (and past the guest bathroom) we enter my favorite room in the house.  Perhaps 10 meters by 5,  one long wall has three French doors that open to the full length balcony.  This is the view I promised to describe earlier.

This photo is a little screwy because a had to stitch five photos together to get it all in.  Unfortunately, I took these photos in mid-June, at the start of the rainy season so you can't see the mountains and valley.  But, on the far left would be the mountain range that separates the valley of Mexico from the valley of Morelos.  In the center are the mountains of Tepoztlan, and behind that, the volcanoes, Itztaccíhuatl and Popocatépetl. Further to the right lies the valley of Morelos, rimmed by another range of mountains separating Cuernavaca from Yautepec.  All across the foreground lies the city of Cuernavaca, now estimated to be 2 million inhabitants.  Probably 100 nights per year, some colonia, somewhere in the city, is celebrating its local fiesta with fireworks.  Day or night, this is one of the best city views I've even seen or expect to see.

Below the living room we find the main terrace.  Equal in size to the living room, columned and beside the pool, this is the best place to enjoy Cuernavaca's perfect weather.  Legend has it that Barbara Hutton, heir to the Woolworths fortune, sent out her minions to find the best climate in the world; they returned with three recommendations.  She settled in Cuernavaca.

This photo is a little screwy too, I had to stitch together three photos to get it all in, the balcony on the top floor (outside of the living room) is really taller than it appears here.

The pool is fully equipped with a gas heater (separate tank), filter and pump.  It's about 5 feet deep at the deepest and perhaps 3 1/2 at the shallowest and long enough to do lengths.  Well, short lengths anyway, it's 8 meters by 3.

The pool and terrace area are capped at each end by more garden.  The large, back garden is shaded by Eucalyptus and Magnolia trees and tucked in the lower corner are three little banana trees.

This final photo was taken from the roof of the bungalow.  The bungalow is a completely self contained unit with a private entrance, a kitchenette and bathroom.  Below the bungalow is a 2 1/2 car garage.

Not shown in the photos are boring details of the design of the house.  It has 5 tinacos (roof water tanks) and an oversized cistern for more water storage.  Three gas tanks independently supply the kitchen, bedrooms and pool with hot water. There is a laundry room by the servants quarters and another garden behind the bedroom section that would be perfect for herbs or a small vegetable patch.

As I mentioned at the beginning, this house was for sale. In early October a young gentleman dropped in and within three weeks it was sold!  Purely by coincidence, a friend of mine mentioned that she and her husband were hoping to find someone to look after their house. Fate smiled on me once again and I was able to move directly from this house to theirs. When I find the time, I'll do a page on the new house too!

Doug Hurd, Cuernavaca, Mexico
June 24, 2000

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