Adventures In Mexico

HISTORY OF CUERNAVACA
(CUAUHNAHUAC)

by Linda Cintron

The original inhabitants of the area around Cuernavaca were the Tlahuicas, a sub group of the Nahuatl culture. They first settled the region in the 10th or 11th century and were related to the Aztecs who arrived on the other side of the mountains in the valley of Mexico at a later date. It was this early culture that built the pyramids at Teopanzalco in downtown Cuernavaca.

The first known conquest of the Tlahuicas was made by the second king of Tenochtitlan, Huitzilihuit who ended up by marrying the daughter of the local king. From this union was born Moctezuma Ilhuicamina, the great Moctezuma. While Moctezuma was growing up the new king Itzcoatl, conquered Cuauhnahuac (Cuernavaca). When Moctezuma Ilhuicamina became Emperor he remembered his boyhood haunts and had beautiful gardens and villas built on the Cuernavaca side of the mountains at Oaxtepec where the natural springs made both a healthy and warm retreat during the winter months.

The Aztec domination of the entire region lasted until the advent of the Spaniard lead by Hernan Cortez conquered and made allies of the Tlaxcalan tribes. These new allies showed him the route to Tenochtitlan (Mexico City) that led around the heavily defended direct route. It went by the more easily passable southern route. Bernal Diaz del Castillo, the historian who traveled as a soldier with Cortes' army, describes the trail and the ultimate battle on the southern side of the ring of mountains surrounding Cuernavaca. The army moved through the valley taking Yautepec then Topoztlan and finally arriving at a ravine used as a line of defense by the inhabitants of Cuernavaca. The ravine was believed to be uncrossable and so the line was lightly patrolled. The Indian allies of Cortes discovered a spot along the ravine where two huge trees grew out from either side of the ravine and formed a rough natural bridge. The magnificent Diego Rivera Mural in the Cortes Palace shows the Indians and some Spaniards working their way across the intertwined branches. Three heavily armored Spaniards fell to their deaths from here but the balance of the force crossed unopposed and entered the city while others repaired one of the felled bridges for the horses to cross upon. The defending troops scattered at the sight of the horses (supposedly the horse and man were considered to be one being) and the city was burned and pillaged. When the chiefs came down from the hills and prostrated themselves before Cortes the carnage stopped.

After the conquest of Mexico City Cortes returned to Cuernavaca to build his palace. In 1529 Cortes was granted by the Spanish crown, as an award for his conquests, a huge tract of land which included all of the present state of Morelos, all the Indians then living on the land, the title of Marquis of the Valley of Oaxaca and power of life and death over all the souls on his domains. Efforts were made early to convert the Indians to Christianity and agriculture was altered by new products and methods. The most lasting of these was the cultivation of sugarcane. To economically compete with Island grown sugarcane employing slave labor, the Spaniard established the Hacienda system utilizing vast areas of land and Indian labor maintained almost in complete servitude. Some churchmen came to the defense of the Indians but the Hacienda system thrived until 1917 and its evils permeated the history of the region for almost 400 years. Cuernavaca and the State of Morelos thrived under the Spanish yoke for 289 years. That is, the Spaniards thrived on the richness of the hacienda produce which were sold abroad.

The natives survived and a great deal of intermixing took place, which gave birth to a new race, the Mexicans. Part Spanish and part Indian, they were called Mestizos or mixed. The Mextizos grew in number and economic importance but were excluded from all government posts as were the Creoles, or Spaniards born in Mexico. All Appointments were reserved for Spaniards born in Spain. This situation developed slowly over the centuries but finally the native born population arose to drive out the Spaniards and take over their own lands. The War of Independence started in 1810 with the Cry of Dolores. A Creole priest named Father Miguel Hidalgo rang his church bells in the town of Dolores and shouted, " Long live the liberty of all the Americas." The populace rose up and, after a protracted war the Spaniards were forced to withdraw in 1821. From 1821 to 1864 relative peace prevailed in the area with only a change of Hacienda owners from Spaniards to Creoles or Mestizos.

With the French intervention of 1864-1867 Cuernavaca became the favorite watering place of the Imperial court of Carlotta and Maximilian Von Hapsburg. They traveled the cobbled trail carriage from the Capital in the mountains above to this sun kissed plain where they could enjoy court life and avoid the rigors of winter. The Empire was overthrown in 1867 and Benito Juarez, the legitimate president was reinstalled in office. Up to this time the area of the present State of Morelos pertained at various times to the States of Guerrero, Puebla and Mexico but in 1869 President Juarez published a decree forming the sovereign State of Morelos, named after the hero of the Was of Independence. It included Cuernavaca as its capital and the districts of Yautepec, Jonacatepec, and Tetecala.

Again a period of relative calm prevailed but the hacienda system, with all its faults not only survived but was strengthened by a ruthless enforcement of the completely unequal land system whereby some 100 landowners owned all the land and the Indians owned none at all. Their only hope for earning any kind of a livelihood was to work for the hacienda on the terms laid down by the owners. With time the workers became virtual slaves not even permitted to leave the land with out special permission. This situation was one of the causes of the Revolution of 1910 against the dictatorial President, Porfirio Diaz. Different parts of Mexico had their own regional leaders and here in Morelos a native son led the battle with the slogan LAND AND LIBERTY. His name of course was Emiliano Zapata, whose name even today strikes awe in his native lands. He fought against the hacienda system and after aiding three different presidents defeated their predecessors he still couldn't get any action on dividing the land. Finally he was tricked into a trap and brutally murdered.

The fighting by all the various forces between the Revolution of 1910 and the final peace in 1919 physically destroyed every village and town, hacienda and ranch in the state. Because of the massive architecture introduced by the Spaniards the walls of most of these buildings resisted destruction but the roofs and all wooden beams were burnt and not one single area escaped ruin. All of the historical sites that one visits today have been perforce repaired in part or in whole.

End

Glyph for CuauhnahuacAnother interesting note to the story of Cuernavaca is the origin of the name. I've heard that the Tlahuica name for the city was Cuauhnahuac (coo-ahoo-NA-oo-ac) which means Place of the Whispering Trees. The closest the Spaniard conquerors could come to pronouncing this was cuerno-vaca, which, in Spanish, is cow horn, a rather unfortunate approximation. I like the first name better.

Doug Hurd

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